If kept in clean, warm hutches, and fed a good diet, your Guinea pig will more likely to remain healthy. They do not need any vaccinations but do need nails cut occasionally. Your veterinary nurse will do it if you prefer. Please ensure they are checked regularly and that includes teeth, skin, eyes, bottoms, nails and hair.

It is important to look at their coats often, as skin problems can occur. Any signs of sores, hair loss, mites, wriggly things, bald patches, constant scratching etc. should be treated sooner rather than later. Long coated Guinea’s need regular grooming and regular bathing (using an appropriate shampoo) in the summer months helps to prevent mites from laying eggs and keeps the coat nice and healthy.

Mite prevention products are available from any vet and are an important part of keeping Guinea pigs healthy. They are not too expensive and are simply a spot on that goes onto the back of their necks, these keep the creepy crawlies away.

Weighing your Guinea pig each week and recording it can be beneficial as if they start to lose weight it is a good indicator that something else is wrong. Guinea pigs do sometimes have problems with teeth so any weight loss must be investigated.

As with all animals, They need exercise to stay fit and healthy. Having a big area to explore and bomb around in daily also keeps them stimulated and entertained, which is equally as important.

Giving access to a big and varied environment improves their world in an incredible way. Even a large cage or hutch is quite a restrictive space, which is why daily floor time or sessions in a garden run/exercise pen are so important. Floor time brings the obvious increases in opportunities for mental and physical stimulation but let's not forget there's plenty in it for you too! Use your imagination when it comes to making tunnels, bridges, hidey holes, caves, platforms, climbing…….They will give anything a try, just watch them. Just make sure they are safe when being “environmentally enriched”. On the internet there are some wonderful examples of guinea pig enclosures that are just perfect for them.

You will also need to make provision for your Guinea pig to have a run about even in cold weather, perhaps indoors, if they are really spoilt but the patio or decking is ok as long as the floor is dry. This daily handling helps them to bond with you. However, please do not put them out on damp grass, there is a strong possibility that it will make them poorly. They need the exercise but just want it to be dry.

HEALTH & AILMENTS

On the health front there are not too many problems. Toenails grow throughout a guinea pigs life and will need trimming from time to time. Use nail clippers and do not cut too close to the little red vein that is visible in the nail.

If your Guinea Pig develops sore patches on the back or starts shedding fur then he/she may have picked up some bugs these can be caught from the hay. It is essential to get rid of these bugs by visiting your veterinary practice and ask for a treatment called “Seleen” and bath your Guinea Pig in it by ensuring the solution is diluted and massaged well into the skin. Leave for 10-15 minutes before rinsing off thoroughly. Repeat treatment again in 10 days time.

MANGE

Mange is fairly common. It is caused by a burrowing mite and Guinea pigs that are affected itch and break out in open sores, especially around the head and neck area. The most effective treatment is a medication called Ivermectin but as usual it’s best to consult your vet.

LICE

Lice can be a problem from time to time and can be seen by the naked eye. You can buy a spray that is PYRETHRUM based (Johnsons Anti pest spray for birds is ideal) this can be obtained from all good pet stores. To apply hold the can approx 6” from the Guinea Pig’s rump (above the grease spot, this is where the tail would be if Guinea Pigs had one) and apply. Please ensure you protect your Guinea Pig’s Facial area when using any spray.

MOUTH SORES

Some Guinea Pigs can present mouth sores/scabs this is caused by a bacterial infection, which can be exacerbated by feeding foods that have a high acid content, such as Apple, Tomato & Orange but these can be given as an occasional treat.

This condition is contagious and can be treated by using “Pevidine” as a mouthwash and then by applying “nystatin” (an antibiotic/steroid cream) directly onto the sores. It would be worthwhile to check the hutch for any abrasive surfaces that the Guinea Pig may be chewing. Those Guinea Pigs which chew away at the wire mesh of their cage doors are particularly susceptible to mouth infections.

EYE PROBLEMS & INFECTIONS

Traumatic eye infections are fairly common, generally as a result of a hay seed or sharp piece of bedding scratching the eye. The whole surface of the eye may turn a cloudy blue overnight. The eye must be bathed to remove any foreign material and an antibiotic eye cream applied 3 – 4 times per day (best to consult your vet).

Other signs that should be examined by a vet are:

Crusty eyes - may indicate conjunctivitis or the presence of a foreign object

Watery eyes - may be the result of a blocked tear duct

Cloudy eyes - eye infections, ulceration or damage may result in a general cloudiness of the entire eye

Protruding eyes - can indicate an abscess, elongated roots, or other problem

Cataracts - This is the clouding of the lens in the eye. This can be age related and appears gradually over time, if however it suddenly appears then this may indicate either "hay-poke" or sometimes diabetes.

Entropion - This is a turning in of the eyelashes causing irritation of the eye. The eye may turn milky white and develop a corneal ulcer. If this happens with a new born Guinea Pig in most cases it will outgrow this condition after a few weeks. The irritation can be eased by applying a sterile eye lubricant from your vet and used several times during the day.

 

DIARRHOEA

Diarrhoea can be caused by a sudden change in diet and it can often happen in the summer when green foods become readily available. In most cases the Guinea Pig remains bright and retains it’s appetite. Green foods and mollased dry foods must be withheld, although plants with astringent properties (Shepherds Purse and Bramble leaves) can be fed at this time. Kaolin based infant diarrhoea preparations are also useful given at a dose of 3 or 4 drops 3 - 4 times per day. Colic pain or bloating can sometimes be relieved by administering 3 – 4 drops of vegetable oil by mouth.

Cystitus can be common. The clinical signs are discomfort during urination and the urine may contain blood. The underside of the Guinea Pig may become very wet, this needs to be treated with antibiotics from your vet “Borgal” or “Tribrissen” provides the best response.

EASY CHECKS FOR A HEALTHY GUINEA PIG

Thankfully, guinea pigs are very hardy creatures, and if kept clean and fed well they rarely become sick. There are, however, some daily checks you should make, to ensure that your guinea pig stays well, it also helps you to notice any change very quickly, and visit your vet at the first sign of illness.

EYES

There should be no sign of cloudiness or discharge. An eye that suddenly goes cloudy may mean that the guinea pig has got an ulcer as a result of a piece of hay in its eye. Any eye problems require urgent veterinary attention. Guinea pigs do normally secrete a milky discharge from their eyes, which precedes grooming, as they use it on their paws to groom themselves, if you see this you do not need to worry about it.

NOSE

The nose should be clean, and as with the eyes, shouldn't be runny. Any discharge or sneezing may suggest that your guinea pig has a cold.

THE COAT

The fur should be dense and clean. Any patches of hair loss or areas where the skin is red and sore may suggest that your guinea pig has mites. Watch him closely, is he scratching more than usual? Mites burrow under the skin and cause a distressing condition called mange, and the sooner you spot any problem, the sooner you can get it treated, something your guinea pig will certainly thank you for. Sometimes you may see little tiny nits walking on your guinea pigs fur, these are hay mites, which are harmless and a simple shampoo will get rid of them for you.

THE FEET

Check the nails, and never let them get too long. Guinea pigs have no fur on the bottom of their feet, so check the bottom of their feet regularly for any sign of soreness. If their feet are sore their bedding wants to be as soft as possible, wood shavings and soft meadow hay is best.

THE BOTTOM

Yes, this bit needs checking too... The whole area should be clean and dry. If the guinea pig is wet and smelly between its legs it may have a urine infection. Old boys may also get a problem where their poo gets stuck (see below), and they are no longer able to eat the sticky caecotrophs as they should. Your vet will be able to show you how to help them daily to make sure they have clean bottoms.

CLEANING THE PENIS

With Boars it is helpful to examine the penis and clean any debris you find. The whitish material is called smegma and may be odorous. After cleaning gently with warm water, you can lubricate the penis with mineral oil. If you find any raw skin or sores, apply a thin film of antibiotic ointment. To extend the penis, press down gently.

CARING FOR BOARS: CLEANING OUT THE PERINEAL SAC

Guinea pigs are coprophagic, a word used to describe the re ingestion of certain faecal pellets which for some animals is a perfectly normal behaviour on their part and helps to repopulate their gut fauna as well reabsorb the nutrients that it contains.

 

These pellets, which are taken from the perineal sac, are seldom seen because the Guinea Pig does not excrete them. You will often see a guinea pig, with its head down between its back legs, as if energetically searching. Most often he is taking one of these pellets from the perineal sac.

In some boars, the sac becomes impacted with these pellets. It maybe because the muscle spasms which enable the pellets to be presented to the boar have become weak. 0r it could be because the pellets, which are softer than those that are excreted, get softer still and form into a large ball. It is more common in elderly boars but is by no means unknown in younger boars.

The owner’s intervention is very important. The help needed may not be very pleasant for the owner but it is a small price to pay considering the pleasure the animal has given.

It is simply a matter of rolling back the opening of the sac and exposing it with finger and thumb. Using wipes and cotton buds remove the matter which has collected in the sac (it is a combination of hair, bedding, grease etc and can smell unpleasant), once done you can apply using a cotton wool bud some mineral oil (obtainable from your pharmacy) to the area.

How regularly it has to be done varies, some need it daily, others only two or three times a week.

GREASE GLANDS

Grease glands are not exclusive to boars, but they are more active in boars. Regular degreasing should be part of your boar’s routine. Swarfega is an excellent product to use. Made for removing grease from Human hands it does the job well on guinea’s grease glands too. Wet the Guinea all over, apply Swarfega to grease gland area (base of what would be where the tail is), over the next three minutes or so you will feel the grease breaking down as you massage the Swarfega into guinea’s coat that surrounds the gland. After approx.4 minutes rinse the coat and surrounding areas well. This is an important stage of bathing because a dirty grease gland will attract mites and mites mean irritation.